If you want to kick start your anti-aging skincare routine, you are definitely thinking about the retinoid versus retinol dilemma. There are many ingredients that help achieve a youthful look, including hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and more. But nothing is as effective as retinol and retinoids. They set the gold standard in anti-aging skincare routines.
You can find many studies on the topical effects of vitamin A on anti-aging, anti-acne, and reduction of hyperpigmentation. But the debate about retinoid versus retinol continues. What is the difference between the two?
Similar Yet Different
The biggest misconception in the retinoid vs retinol are the same. But while some use the terms interchangeably, they are different. Retinoid or retinoids is the term assigned to the overarching category of compounds derived from vitamin A. There are many retinoids available in skincare. All of them fall into four categories, one of which is retinol.
The other three categories include retinoic acid, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde. Consumers mostly know retinol, which is an over-the-counter vitamin A derivative.
Ordinary retinol is the precursor to retinoic acid. Both are vitamin A derivatives, but retinoic acid can only be obtained via prescription.
The main difference is retinoic acid doesn’t have to be converted by the skin. It is instantly effective. With ordinary retinol, it takes longer to work. The enzymes in our skin have to convert retinol to retinal and then to retinoic acid before our body and skin can digest it.
What Are Retinoids?
Let’s continue looking deeper into the issue. What are retinoids? Well, topical retinoid is one of the many vitamin A derivatives. They can tackle everything from fine lines and pigmentation to acne and psoriasis. Topical retinoids achieve this by boosting the turnover rate of skin cells.
In simplest terms, retinoids can accelerate the rate of skin cell division and new cell growth. To put it even simpler, they change how your skin cells function.
When you apply it topically, you increase cell division on the surface of your skin, thickening the top layer of it.
Retinoids also boost the production of collagen and elastin. These two skin proteins naturally decrease over time, which can result in signs of aging.
Last, but not least, retinoids can unclog pores and remove bacteria that contribute to acne breakouts. The most powerful retinoid is tretinoin, which is only available via prescription. Tretinoin has a higher strength of retinoic acid and can reach up to 2%.
Most retinoids, even prescription retinoids come in the form of creams or gels.
What Is Retinol?
Think of retinol as a subtype of retinoids. Retinol works in the same way as prescription retinoids but contains a much lower concentration and strength of retinoic acid.
It takes a lot more time for a retinol product to achieve your goal of clear skin. But is also a lower risk of irritation. If you have sensitive skin, you should be careful with using topical retinoids.
That is why retinol is available as an over-the-counter acne treatment for dry skin. But you cannot get topical retinoid without a prescription from your dermatologist.
Retinols need to be degraded into retinoic acid once applied to the skin. It makes them weaker and it takes more time to be effective.
Also checkout:
- Tretinoin VS Retinol – Understanding the Differences
Which One To Use?
Before choosing between retinoid vs retinol, you should consider your skin type. Another factor is the severity of the issue. If you have dry skin, retinols work better because they are less drying and formulated with hydrating and moisturizing ingredients.
People with sensitive skin also should consider a less powerful retinol formula. Try retinol two or three times before switching to a more powerful topical retinoid.
Once your skin adjusts to tolerating a gentle product, you can work your way up to stronger skincare products. Yet, with any skincare product you should be patient. If you opt for retinol, it can take up to six months to notice a difference in your skin.
If you want faster improvement for your severe acne treatment or other skin conditions, you might consider a prescription retinoid. But only in consultation with your dermatologist.
Side Effects To Consider
As we said before, retinoids are more potent, but they also carry the risk of potential side effects. Those include:
- Redness
- Flaking
- Burning of your skin
- Mild irritation
- Sun sensitivity
- Dryness
If you are careful and patient, you can avoid them. Usually, these side effects appear after skincare products overuse or an overly aggressive skincare routine. And yes, the higher the dose or concentration, the higher the risk for side effects.
If you are allergic to any ingredients in the product, stay away from it.
Can I Use More Than One Retinoid Product?
This is a common misconception. Usually, people who are looking for a faster treatment might ask for it. But do not consider using multiple retinoids.
It is better to avoid it, as it can lead to an increase in dryness and irritation. With multiple retinoids, you can turn your normal skin into dry skin quickly.
Check the ingredient list for any allergens. Check your other skincare products for ingredients. Some of them can render retinoids ineffective. For example, benzoyl peroxide and alpha hydroxy acid can deactivate retinoids.
Combining retinoids with astringents like witch hazel or ethyl alcohol can dry out your skin.
Who Cannot Use Retinol and Retinoid?
Most skin types can tolerate these skincare products. But you have to make sure you choose the suitable one for your condition and skin. Start with an over-the-counter retinol gel or retinol serum. Then, if your skin type can tolerate it, move on to a more powerful prescription product.
Patients with sensitive skin and dry skin should start with an OTC retinol gel. It is more tolerable than prescription retinoids.
How To Use Them?
The number one mistake many patients make is that they overuse the product. Retinol serum and topical retinoids are not designed for daily use.
Yes, they are part of your skincare routine. But they are not daily products. Constant daily use can cause irritation, redness, dryness, and flaking.
If you have light skin, you should start by applying the product every three days. If you do not notice signs of irritation after three weeks, increase the frequency to every other night. Some people can get to every night, but it is too frequent. It is best that you stick to once every other night.
For those with medium skin or dark skin, start using retinoid or retinol once per week. Increase it to two nights per week after a while and at a maximum of three nights per week.
Depending on your skincare routine, there is a time and place to apply retinoid. For example, if you use retinoid serum, it goes under the moisturizer. But if it is a retinoid moisturizer, it is usually directed to go on after a serum or toner. If you use tretinoin, the most powerful retinoid, apply it 20 minutes after you have washed your face and before applying any other products. This will minimize irritation.
