Some thoughts on LFW

Maybe it’s the recession, London has been a lot more wearable than other times this season, toning down on drama and showing real clothes. Ok maybe except for one…

Giles Deacon


It’s so confusing… To be honest, I haven’t like a collection from him since Spring 08′. This time it is too much, my brain hurts just from browsing through the collection. I love a few pieces in the middle, the ultra sleek olive green number, but everything else is really messy— spikes, fur, chains, crazy hats (when can he drop that off?) and with red lipstick as the makeup… what a craze. That cape/furry thing on Amanda Laine is probably one of the weirdest and most unnecessary thing I have seen so far.

Christopher Kane


Amazing play with lines and contours. Not only is this collection very wearable, but most of the looks, especially the dresses, are really chic and sexy. It is safe, and not his strongest collection but it is extremely likable and still feels very Christopher Kane. No wonder it is a hit for critics and buyers.

Marios Schwab


Less commercial than last season but not really creative. He used to be so good at incorporating body science into his garments— remember that Spring 08′ collection that shot him to fame? But this is still a great collection overall, love the prints and the unexpected slits exposing at random places. He makes strange unconventional clothes, but at times, strange can be appealing.

Peter Pilotto


I love his work, this is a stunning collection. The prints and the colours are so rich and the textures— draping and crushed fabrics with gem stones— are a really interesting combination. He also knows how to tone it down a little with a few muted pieces in the end. Sometimes I wonder why a talent like him doesn’t get as much notice as Kane and Marios.

Milan starting next.

[images:, catwalking,]