Couture, now

Catching up with the shows, I think this season, Gautier’s and Tisci’s are amazing, real stand outs.







But in general, this Spring 09 couture season is rather weak. Surely, the standard is still there, extravagant  as usual, and to name a collection as ‘couture’ is protected by law anyway, so ‘weak’ doesn’t mean closing to prêt-à-porter. Enough of blaming the economy, but if you were to compare the state of couture shows these days to let say, 5 years ago, you would probably miss the wow factor as much as me. Not only Galliano doesn’t excite you anymore, the presentations are a lot more modest, there are not enough supermodels (three stumbles already, but you don’t blame the newbies) and everything is just quiet. Maybe it’s because I still can’t get over that Valentino collection.

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli.

“Wooden, lifeless, dead on arrival” are some words that Cathy Horyn (see her review) used to described. I couldn’t agree more. The frustrating part is that there are so many other couturiers out there who are so certified. They trained, and worked their guts out to be named as a couturier to show at that prestigious fashion week in Paris. The two accessories designers simply went from making couture bags to couture garments. The translation— painful.

The world is really in a mess right now.


  • jeffmaia

    I haven’t seen the whole shows yet but I do agree with you about the couture being really week.. I don’t know if it’s because of the recession..

    maybe haute couture is really vanishing, I wanna see how is gonna be the sellings? lets wait and see.

  • Laila

    ^ some interesting facts about the recent sales:

    Alessandra’s debut couture collection for Valentino only sold one piece.

    Givenchy couture pieces are mostly bought by the Middle East (Dubai!)….

  • la poubelle

    only one piece?!?!?
    chanel is the only house to make real money from couture and i really liked the look of their show

  • wottoncool

    too much of the valentino house is too revolved around valentino himself. a bit unhealthy for both, no? snap out of it already!

  • peek-a-boo

    I agree about the Givenchy and JPG collections. Other than that I found the collections rather routine for want of a better word.
    Armani looked like … well…Armani.With a hint of YSL chinoiserie.
    The pieces at Chanel were perfectly executed and Bravo to the ateliér but certain moments were like vintage Valentino.
    At LaCroix apart from 2 colourful confections the rest looked like rehash from the past.
    I have to say that I almost dozed off at Dior. A few fabulous white appliquéd sheath gowns (like Tanya’s) kept me going.
    At Valentino it looked like Vava never left! I keep hearing and reading it was a ‘respectable’ collection . ..Hum. Like a lot of people I do miss the freshness of Fachinetti and her twists with the Valentino House codes.

  • Prism Reflection

    I awaited to see the Valentino collection, and wasnt shocked by the already très announced return to «roots». Kinda sad to know only one piece sold

  • Freelance Website Designer

    Some stunning designs there…

  • Meera

    Love the strong neutral colors used

  • hodan

    never saw the appeal of couture.those are some ugly ass dresses.