Fall ’09… a sum-up
This season has been pretty exciting, really. I was expecting a very predictable season but like what fellow blogger Vogueite has said, recession can be a trial to test and challenge designers’ creativity and adaptaion.
London and Paris have been exceptional, they blew me away. For New York, I do like few, Jonathan Saunders (who happens to be Briton), Julian Louie, Altuzarra and Doo.Ri. I can’t get over Doo.Ri’s collection, she did something different and it is worth noticing.
I enjoyed Christopher Kane, Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou for London… and I thought Topshop Unique is not bad. One that really caught my attention is David Lawlor from the Central Saint Martins show (click here, look #32-29)
He spent “more than a year perfecting a technique inspired by Japanese body armour of layering waxed-cotton cords over cashmere sweaters, to create a lace effect for the outfits in his collection.” Like all fellow CSM students, he must be one those who spent a lot of effort researching and experimenting. The result is really superb, and very London. Hoping to see more of his work in future.
Milan is really safe this season. Seriously, nothing much to say… I like Antonio Marras as usual and Missoni this season for the surprise. I would never expect knit overload and homeless chic to emerge from Missoni since the house has been doing the same dresses/gowns/coats like every other house for a long time. It looks so un-sexy for Milan, yet it feels so right.
My picks for Paris are Akris— loads of statement coats—, Kenzo — Marras has been on a roll, love the past two collections—, Miu Miu, Lanvin, Hermés, Galliano, Givenchy, Margiela and Comme des Garçons— check out the fabric on the first look below:
A coat that has a fabric gradiant, down to chiffon. Amazing.
And about Louis Vuitton. It’s cute, Parisian cute, but over the years I am quite lost at how Marc vision the Vuitton woman because every season ‘she’ seems totally different and Vuitton must be one of the rarest luxury houses to have an absolute experimental ready to wear line all thanks to Marc, which I thought might be a good or bad thing. Their revenue is generated mostly from handbags (oh the latest Steven Sprouse mania… enough…) so well, there it explains.
Lastly, the biggest trend this season— 80s’ comeback. This Fall, it’s gonna be shoulders, shoulders, and more shoulders