Some thoughts on NYFW
The collection is very reflective of who he is now. His work has grown with him. Once upon a time he is famous for making cute clothes, but these days it’s more explicit and literal. Interesting that his aesthetics change as he himself transforms. Fall 09′ is actually a very fun collection, optimistic and full of attitude. The entire presentation (just look at the make up and hair) is not being safe or depressive, unlike most NY collections. As the big gun of NYFW, he is setting a pretty good example to others about the way to fight recession. Though personally, I am not really feeling the direction of the entire collection, especially the later part of it. There are great individual pieces here and there but the last section where all the bright coloured pieces came in, together with the heavy 80s’ references, it feels a little too heavy handed and totally NOT typical Marc Jacobs at all, which I am not sure whether it’s likeable or not. But it is very directional in terms of trends— velvet, strong shoulders, 80s, neon… As for Marc by MJ, it is very him, he played it safe. Which means at the Marc Jacobs camp, it should be all fine financially in the upcoming year.
Phillip Lim is easily one of my top collections in NY. He is such a crowd pleaser, the pieces are trendy as always and I have always like the layering he does, and wide variation of looks that would surely appeal to many different types of young fashionistas. Simply bravo. But I would wish that his line won’t look too much of an upper class Topshop.
The Mulleavy sisters have a very interesting aesthetics. Their signature look evolves as seasons go by, like a continuation of the previous, but with new inspiration. This season they used a lot more different types of fabrics to do their usual collage-y dresses, thanks to their Swiss textile awards fund. But somehow, a part of me yearns to see them doing something different, they have been stuck doing the same thing since the Spring 08 period. Maybe it’s their way of surviving but they need to keep the crowd interested…
They went back to their roots this season… very safe but not exciting at all. It lacks a wow factor.
Another top favourite collection on my list. Amazing prints, patterns and colour contrast. I find it weird though, that for a fall collection, there isn’t a single pair of pants, but I will do just fine with any coats and dresses from this collection.
All the cardigans are to die for. Koi’s clothes are really cute, always look forward to see her work.
These veterans resort to the same trend— neons. The random colour palettes that were thrown in between the collection is almost the same, but they played with them in their own way— Narciso did the skin tight wrapping dress and Kors, the coats and fur. (And is it just me or the giant chain necklaces at Kors resembles Maison Martin Margiela’s signature ones?)
I feel that both Wang and Karan had lost a bit of the youthfulness and modern edge in their latest effort. Surely, the pieces are lovely and very much of their own style but it won’t appeal to the young trendy crowd with those hemline and over-seriousness. Some clothes look so wrong on those 17, 20 year old models’ body.
[images: catwalking, style.com]